Wapcelona

Shopping

For vintage numbers, head to the Portobello section of El Raval; visit El Born for boutiques from up-and-coming-designers, and the Passeig de Gràcia and Diagonal for flagship designer stores. The Eixample is good for offbeat fashion and gourmet food stores, while Spanish wardrobe staples such as Zara, Mango, and Adolfo Dominguez have branches throughout the city.

CARRERA Y CARRERA
11 Passeig de Gràcia , Eixample
Tel: 34 93 302 64 41
www.carreraycarrera.com
Established in Madrid in 1885, this exclusive jewelry and watch store has been enthusiastically adopted by fashionistas across the globe from Spanish supermodel Inés Sastre, to Gisele Bündchen and Scarlett Johansson. Each piece in this Passeig de Gràcia shop has an engraved identification number. Over-the-top styles incorporate white gold, diamonds, orange sapphires, and flame feathers—making these watches more like jewelry than timepieces. There are also classically designed wristwatches for daily use.
Closed Sundays.

CRISTINA CASTAÑER
23 Carrer del Meste Nicolau
San Gervasi
Tel: 34 93 414 24 28
www.castaner.com
Everyone from Jean Paul Gaultier to Stella McCartney has sent models down the runway on wedge-heeled peasant shoes, but here you can get them straight from the source at this San Gervasi neighborhood shop. You can buy them in all the colors of the rainbow, classic or funky, with cute ankle straps or silk ribbons, in both men's and women's styles.
Closed Sundays.

ICI ET LÀ
2 Plaça Santa María
El Born
Tel: 34 93 268 11 67
www.icietla.com
Fans of grown-up hippy-chic will love this Aladdin's cave of trinkets, curios, and household items in El Born. All handmade and mostly from Spanish designers (though you will stumble across the odd international name), they include scented candles in sardine cans, papier-mâché rose twinkle lights, and beautiful chandeliers made of sculpted iron and encrusted with cut-glass crystals.
Closed Sundays.

LA BOQUERIA
89 Las Ramblas
El Raval
Tel: 34 93 318 25 84
Unlike its modern counterpart Santa Caterina, Raval's La Boqueria is loud, crowded, and boisterous. It's built on the site of an old convent, and the wrought-iron roof, stained-glass stalls, and stone columns make it a spectacular venue for some of the world's most photographed food stalls selling everything from eggs and potatoes to percebes (goose barnacles) and insects. Be sure to stop by at Lorenç PetrÀs's mushroom mecca and save time for lunch—either at Bar Pinotxo, Universal Kiosk, or El Quim. Each serves superlative fresh fish and seafood tapas, made all the better by a glass of local bubbly.
Closed Sundays.

LA SEU
16 Dagueria, Barri Gòtic
Tel: 34 93 412 65 48
www.formatgerialaseu.com
Once a butter-making factory, dating back to 1917, this facility returned to its dairy roots in 2000 when Scottish cheese expert Katherine McLoughlin opened La Seu. (The name is derived from the Catalan nickname for a cathedral, or general headquarters.) Katherine sells only Spanish artisanal cheeses—nearly all from small producers—that range from nutty, deeply flavored sheep's-milk El Cascarral to creamy cow's-milk Arzúa-Ulloa from Galicia. None is held in stock, which means they're perfectly ripe when they reach the consumer. Tastings with a small pour of wine are available for under $5.

LAILO
20 C/Riera Baja
El Raval
Tel: 34 93 441 37 49
Barcelona may not have the profusion of specialist vintage stores of Paris or L.A., but it does have the diminutive C/Riera Baja in El Raval, home to a smattering of good-quality secondhand shops. The best of these is Lailo, which stocks old costumes from the Liceu as well as a rotating collection of sequined cocktail frocks and flapper dresses; micro-minis from the '60s, genuine '70s platform shoes, antique riding coats, and Chanel handbags. The owners well know the value of their wares, but take some time to rummage through and you may walk away with a bargain.
Closed Sundays.
 


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